S4 Stores RC Kit

[Dai DaviesParticipant]

Following on from John Cutler’s posts, I have also utilised this kit on EM locos – in this case a Bachmann 2251 loco.

i am using the kit to power the existing 12v motor, which means it is a slow runner as the battery is geared to run the MiniBee 5v motor. Although slow, the loco has plenty of traction and easily pulls 4 coaches up a stiff gradient: I might trial more coaches at some stage.

The kit is fine for tender locos, but as John says, there would be a struggle with tank locos, especially proprietary modelswhich are fully stacked inside with weight, etc. Even on the 2251 I put the receiver taped to the underneath of the tender, although this is partly to make sure signal reception is that much easier on longer distances.

Overall, I am pleased: running is good, and soldering is kept to a minimum. I shall have to replace the battery, and possibly add a voltage booster, for larger main-line locos. My first tank is likely to have the RC gubbins in the autocoach, and the two will be permanently coupled.

• This topic was modified 5 months, 3 weeks ago by Dai Davies.

[John CutlerParticipant]

This is interesting as I have just fitted a Mabuchi FF-030PK-11160 motor (3-9V) to a newly converted Bachmann N mogul. The LIPO battery powers it (albeit slowly) when connected directly. But via the harness and receiver it fails to turn. So I need an laternative.

I will refit the Bachmann original 12v motor. I was planning to install a voltage booster but maybe I will see how it performs without one. I do not need a high speed. It seems yours has plenty of power. The Bachmann N’s motor is a Buhler, which is the same as Bachmann offer as a spare for the Collett 2251 Goods. Is your motor a Buhler?

Your idea of having the R/C equipment in an autotrailer permanently coupled to a tank loco is a good one which I may copy. There is spare space in the guard’s compartment and you can disguise anything by covering it with a luggage net. The dratted Scalefour harness is probably still too large though. Hopefully my Scalefour News article will prompt the development of a smaller version.

I would be tempted to leave the receiver in the loco. That way you can have a B-set with a battery and harness that can be used by the same loco. Then consider an electric coupling e.g the Viessmann NEM Pocket, 2 Pole electric coupling 5048 – 1 (sold by DCKits).

 

 

 

 

 

[Dai DaviesParticipant]

Hello John,

a few points from your post:

I am not going to add a voltage booster to my Collett Goods: I don’t need it to go fast. I also want to keep my first loco as simple as possible. I shall do so on larger locos when I have a bit more experience .

I think the Collett Goods has the Buhler motor, it is the one fitted to all the Bachmann GWR locos I’ve torn apart. The controller has to be at about 3 o’clock before I get any movement.

I am keeping the receiver in the autocoach unless I find it a fag. Once again, I want these forays to be simple. BUT, I do like your idea on that DCKits coupling, so I shall look at that a bit further down the line.

You say that you are not great at soldering —- well, you’re a lot better than me! I daren’t try doing your harness. Like you, I’d love to have a tank version available; but I shall try the existing harness in a kit- built 61xx or somesuch, where there’s more room available than in an RTR loco.

• This reply was modified 5 months, 2 weeks ago by Dai Davies.

[John CutlerParticipant]

I refitted the Bachmann motor in the N and it works but the speed is even less than the predicted 17mph. I suspect the greater weight of the loco and the outside motion are a drag compared to the Collett Goods. I am a bit worried about the motor’ s current draw.

I asked Andy at Micron for advice on using the 12-volt Bachmann/Buhler motor in the N mogul. This is the same motor as used in the 2251 Collett Goods.

His response is:

“For the Bachman mogul, your choice for using a higher voltage is either:
– add a MA003 motor driver to the Rx45 output, or
– replace the Rx45 with MR601 (now available).

The 0.4A booster is usually sufficient for N Gauge motors but I have encountered some that are particularly current thirsty. There are only 2 ways of determining: (1) measure the motor current (stall, free running and typical load), or (2) try it and see if the booster gets hot!

Regards
—
Andy
Micron R/C”

 

Note that Andy’s own model interests are in N guage.

Unfortunately Bachmann are unable (or unwilling) to provide data for the Bachmann/Buhler motor. Does anyone have any?

I suspect the current draw may be too great. For comparison, the recommended maximum currents for Mashima 16mm and 18mm dia motors, plus some of the 14mm ones, are over 400 mA; refer to Doug Smith’s Manual sheets.

 

 

 

[Dai DaviesParticipant]

Thanks John, this route is what I guessed would be the case. I have a Deltang 6x which I shall try out on a larger loco in the next couple of weeks.

i wonder if Andy would do an S4 kit equivalent with his MR601 and larger battery?

[John CutlerParticipant]

Sorry Dai, the last para of my post should have been clearer.

It should read “I suspect the current draw may be too great for the 0.4A voltage booster”.

I think a 12 volt or even 9 volt battery is going to be a sourcing issue if using the MR601 receiver. I believe if LIPO batteries are used, they have to be in 3.7v multiples added together so I guess 3 of them equalling 11.1 volts (=lots of space required and careful connections). It is also complicated because I think the MR601 requires an initial setting (on ordering) as to whether it is for lithium or NiMH batteries due to low voltage cut-off issues. I was thinking of using A23  batteries which consist of several coin-cell batteries in a standard wrapping (so they look like traditional batteries). These are non-rechargable but fairly cheap and not too large for a tender. There are adverts claiming the Duracell ones are lithium and alkaline (!?) so not sure which category should be used for initialising the MR601. Perhaps Micron will sell some compatible batteries if MR601 sales take off (but that could be a chicken or egg problem?).

Maybe I should try and collar Ted Scannell for some advice!!

 

 

 

 

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