RTR loco conversion, original drivers

Members Forum RTR Conversions Locos RTR loco conversion, original drivers

  • This topic has 16 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 4 weeks ago by Vernon Harrod.
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    • #245641
      Geoff Stenner
      Participant

        Hello, All.  Over the weekend I viewed a YouTube video showing some Hornby locos on Retford , the large EM layout started by the late Roy Jackson and others.  The narration indicated that the locos shown had been converted merely by pulling the original wheels out to the  new gauge on the original axles, and, given that the locos were pacifics with complex outside valve gear, I wondered how this might have been done?

        Has anyone here done this and is willing to spill the beans, as it were?

        Thanks.

      • #245646
        Bob Allison
        Participant

          Remove the wheel sets from the chassis but don’t remove the wheels from the axles.  Then for each wheel in turn:-

          • Support the back of each wheel on something flat and solid – I used an old brass angle, half inch x half inch x eighth inch thick with a notch for the axle.
          • Gently tap the centre of the axle downwards with a flat-ended rod, less than axle diameter.  Keep checking back to back until it has increased by half the required widening.
          • Repeat for the other wheel
          • Add split washers to pack out from the side of the chassis and replace in the chassis.

          I have only done this for an inside cylinder 0-8-0 and am a bit surprised that folks have got away with it on east coast pacifics. Perhaps they don’t mind missing footsteps or large lumps carved out from the back of the cylinders.  Propietary locos often have a thick washer to bring the centre of the con rods out to the cylinder centres – it may need replacing with a thinner washer.  Clearance between the leading crankpin and back of slidebars/crosshead is another potential conflict – some careful measurement will be needed before going down this route.

          A couple of general observations:-

          • A loco converted this way will look, from sideways on, exactly like the original proprietary model. For me, I would begin to wonder why I went EM Gauge in the first place, but other folks may feel differently.
          • Such quickie conversions definitely won’t run on Pendon style track, as discussed on the other thread.

          Bob

        • #245647
          Geoff Stenner
          Participant

            Thanks, Bob, most interesting and useful.

            For interest the video is here

            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iyikg7oYcHQ ,

            and the relevant part starts at 28min., 57 secs.

            Geoff

          • #245667
            Nigel Burbidge
            Participant

              Like Bob, I am also surprised they managed to get away with moving the original RTR wheels on an outside cylinder loco, for the simple reason that the wheels are usually thicker than, for example, Alan Gibson, and there is precious little space behind the cylinders when the wheels are moved out to EM gauge.  I have converted several outside cylinder RTR models to EM (Hornby B17, K1 and Bachmann Ivatt 2MT) and in each case used Gibson drivers but even then had to thin down the leading crankpins to avoid them fouling the backs of the slide bars.  On the Ivatt I initially tried using Markit wheels and crankpins and that was a disaster because of the space required, so I reverted to Gibson wheels…

              Nigel

            • #253071
              asjharris
              Participant

                I’ve ordered from the EMGS store some 3mm to 2mm axles with a view to reusing the original drivers. I can turn down the original wheels of say a Bachmann Pannier to a finer standard, then hand knurl the 2mm part of the new axle, fit washers then put it all back together? Seems to work in my mind, just wondering if anyone else has done with society axles? The only sticking point might be the plastic muff which may mess up the back to back.

                Cheers

                Tony

              • #253072
                Nigel Burbidge
                Participant

                  Hi Tony,

                  I might seem a bit dense here but looking at the society stores, the 3mm to 2mm axles are turned down to 2mm at the ends, to accommodate wheels with 2mm centres.  Most RTR locos I know that use 2mm centred wheels also use 2mm axles so you would then need to enlarge the axle bearings, for your new 3mm axles.  Or am I missing a crucial point?

                  Nigel

                • #253074
                  asjharris
                  Participant

                    Hi Nigel,

                    Well, I double checked my Bachmann Pannier today with my verniers and it’s got 3mm axles with 2mm ends for the wheels. I’d already converted it using Markits wheels, but still have the old wheels and axles. It got me thinking that it might be easier than using Markits, Gibson’s etc if you have a lathe to hand? No faffing with balance weights either.

                    Tony

                  • #253075
                    Nigel Burbidge
                    Participant

                      Well, crack on then, sounds like a plan and good luck!

                      Nigel

                    • #253078
                      asjharris
                      Participant

                        Ha! Thanks Nigel, will report back in due course.

                        Tony

                      • #253987
                        asjharris
                        Participant

                          I’ve finally got round to turning down the Bachmann Pannier wheels, all is looking good so far. The wheel width is 2.4mm and only the front face has been turned down so far. The back to back will work too as the rear face of the wheel is flush to the rear face of the flange.

                          New axle with old shown in the image.

                          Tony

                           

                          • This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by asjharris.
                          • This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by asjharris.
                        • #253995
                          asjharris
                          Participant

                            Pressed on using the lathe and running true.

                            Tony

                            • This reply was modified 1 month ago by asjharris.
                          • #254003
                            asjharris
                            Participant

                              The final result runs with no binding, possibly due to the slackness in the original enterprise. The motor is unfortunately a 3 pole unit which isn’t of the best quality.

                              Tony

                              • This reply was modified 1 month ago by asjharris.
                            • #254006
                              Nigel Burbidge
                              Participant

                                That looks very good Tony.  Maybe I should invest in a lathe; it’s something I have been mulling over for a long time now…

                                Nigel

                                • #254015
                                  Stuart Firth
                                  Participant

                                    You know you want to… (look into my eyes, etc)

                                    Disclaimer – I really enjoy helping other people to spend their money!

                                     

                                • #254010
                                  asjharris
                                  Participant

                                    Thanks Nigel, go for it. My lathe is the comedy Unimat 1, which being made of plastic will hopefully get the serious modellers on WT in a tis. But as I am turning masak and plastic, is all I need. I’ve no plans to turn steel or iron wheels for 7mm, it’s all about knowing what you intend to do with it.

                                    The dials on the Unimat 1 are accurate enough to enable repeat turning which is all you need.

                                    The shot of my wagon wheel batch below was all done using the dials and all came out at 2.3mm wide.

                                  • #254018
                                    Nigel Burbidge
                                    Participant

                                      Thanks Stuart and Tony,

                                      I may take a short trip down the A3 to visit the showroom of Warco, who make/import mini lathers…

                                      Nigel

                                    • #254060
                                      Vernon Harrod
                                      Participant

                                        <p style=”text-align: center;”>Hello, I’m very late to this thread.  I knew Roy for over 40 years and I can’t recall him using pulled out wheels.  I think that such methodology might have come more recently.</p>
                                        Perhaps the sponsors logo on the video is pertinent?

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